[7:02AM in Vung Tau on 2/3/24]
It’s only 6:02AM but I’ve already had a full day of excitement and revelations, but that’s true of everyone around me. Most Vietnamese start their day in the dark, with many in the middle of the night.
Walking here, I passed a rice shop owner in tank top. Reclined on a deck chair, he was lit in that bluish light from his TV. At the edge of a street, a woman in conical hat sat spread legged in front of a bamboo basket of fish, mostly dead. One large one, though, was still breathing desperately through its throbbing pink gills. I towered over an eight-month-pregnant woman with her mess of just peeled garlic bulbs. It’s as if they had spilled from her. A white haired man petted a white bichon, as another danced nearby, awaiting his turn.
Across the street, there’s another toy dog, but still sleeping in its steel cage. Living in a cafe, she’s much beloved by many patrons. Her lower jaw is missing, though, thanks to her previous owner. At seven-years-old, she’s nearing the end, though still girly cute in her red dress. Even when deformed or missing a leg, dogs remain cheerful, thus teaching us humans a vital lesson.
Now, to my left, a man roughly 50-years-old is talking to a septuagenarian right behind me, “Everybody is out on the streets, selling something, but no one has any money!” In that Vietnamese way, he says it quite cheerfully.
“That’s right,” the crone replies. “Many people have barely enough to buy their medicines.”
“Dodging cops, sometimes I must go into the neighborhoods, but I get by. At least my daughter is graduating next year. She already has a job lined up. It’s been very tough putting her through college.”
“How many do you have?”
“Three. One is grown and has been working. One is in 11th grade. It’s been exhausting!”
“No one has money.”
Finishing his midget can of Red Bull, the man returns to his vegetable stand. Most annoyingly, the TV is now loudly on. A male voice explains that Confucius and Mencius were both natives of Shandong. Shut up already!
The touching tale regarding Mencius’ mama is worth retelling. Since they lived near a graveyard, Mencius became familiar with all the morbid rituals and people sobbing, so his mama moved them close to a market. There, the boy became engrossed with scenes of haggling and hustling, so that’s no good either. Finally, she decided to rent next to a school, thus launching Mencius’ life of learning.
The cafe is called Bitter, by the way. Leaving bitterness, I forge through a busy market on my way back to the ocean. It’s a mystery why I don’t dip my carcass in it more often. At the corner of Cô Bắc and Đoàn Thị Điểm, there’s usually a legless man, begging, and sure enough, there he is, calm and dignified, despite everything, just like that dog without a lower jaw.
Cô Bắc (1906-1943) was an anti-French plotter. Caught, she said just before being sentenced, “Why don’t you go back to France and tear down statues of Jeanne d’Arc!”
Đoàn Thị Điểm (1705-1746?) is best known for a translation of a 476-line poem in Chinese penned by another Vietnamese. Besides her literary talent, she’s said to be very beautiful and great at household chores, including, of course, cooking.
Near the legless man is another unfortunate. Selling trinkets, a young man no older than 20 has a sign around his neck announcing he’s a victim of Agent Orange, thus feebleminded, so please buy something. Calling himself “cháu,” meaning nephew or grandson, he’s appealing to aunts, uncles, big brothers and big sisters. Vietnamese always seek to establish or mimic familial relationships.
11:25AM and I’m already at my fourth cafe. In Friendly Library, I’m sharing a table with a six-year-old girl kneading, rather violently, turquoise colored play dough. As I type this sentence, my entire world shakes, as does yours. Leering loonies out west are threatening to blow everything up.
With its soothing ocean, cool breeze, warm folks and great food still abundant, Vung Tau may appear immune from global turbulences, but an alarming increase of itinerant sellers of lottery tickets is one sure sign of impending trouble. Competing against each other, many set out way before dawn. Even near death or hobbling, many are forced into this, just to eat.
This desperation is somewhat drown out by the festiveness of Tết, the Vietnamese new year. Spring is just a week away. On many sidewalks, flowering peach, chrysanthemum, gladiolus, apricot, dog rose or orchid plants are on sale. To prevent theft, someone must sleep by these gorgeous blooms overnight.
Without meaning to jinx anyone’s happiness, I suspect many of these will go unsold. Trucked far away, they will simply wilt then be tossed.
A popular Tết song begins, “Greeting this Spring, I remember past Springs,” so there’s a continuity, and a return of all that’s good. Retrieving themselves, women are more prone to fluttering around in lovely ao dai. This world has changed, however. Besides all that’s familiar and comforting are still too many dummies in masks.
Tricked, shoved and frightened into the Great Reset, mushy minds worldwide embrace, step by step, their degradation and debilitation, with millions already sliding or collapsing, quite obliviously, into the biggest mass grave ever prepared.
Last night, the Kitchen God returned to heaven to report on what’s happening on earth. This China originated myth has variations. I’ll give you the Viet one. During a quarrel, a man hits his wife then kicks her out. Contrite, he searches for her, but, soon enough, is just a ragged beggar wandering distant lands.
When he bangs on a door, it opens to reveal his old wife, now happily remarried. Showing no anger, she allows him to enter then stuffs his face with the best food ever. Her new husband’s voice can be heard, however, so she tells the old one to hide in a hay stack out back. All is well, but only for a moment.
Suddenly deciding he needs ashes as fertilizer, this man sets fire to the straw. Not wanting to betray his erstwhile bedmate, the holocausted ex doesn’t leap out screaming. It’s understandable, for often, a convoluted explanation just isn’t worth it. Plus, he’s already scorched, if not crispy.
Realizing she’s condemned him to death, the horrified wife dives into the fire, which prompts her baffled husband to do the same. Moved by the selflessness of each, the Jade Emperor kneads them, so to speak, into one Kitchen God. Forever coalesced, they sit in the kitchen of every Vietnamese, save those who’ve decided on a different trinity.
I’ve packed loads of insider knowledge into this brief article for a reason. Since each culture is barely legible to outsiders, don’t give me none of that jazz about being a global citizen. You barely know your own, homie!
6:49PM finds me at Cóc Cóc Coffee. It’s been a long day filled with mental mistakes, but that’s just how it is sometimes. Like you, I must slog on. Just be grateful our lives aren’t quite destroyed as the indifferent or sadistic look on. Even children are being burnt or pulverized. Behind me, an intact girl has just shrieked.
[7:05AM in Vung Tau on 2/3/24]
[victim of Agent Orange in Vung Tau on 2/3/24]
[itinerant seller of lottery tickets at 5:45AM in Vung Tau on 2/3/24]
[Vung Tau on 2/3/24]
I have read a number of your articles over the years. I admired that you could and did wander about from place to place while commenting on your observations and experiences. To move about without knowing what the next day would bring seemed a very brave existence. I, myself, moved from job to job with the security of a regular paycheck being the main principal perhaps. I've mostly known what the next day would bring as well as the next day after that. There were exceptions though.
After one of the jobs I had for only a short time was corporately restructured, I moved back to be near my parents to look for more employment. (the reason maybe because they meant security). Soon though, I was past broke and taking cash advances on credit cards to pay credit cards. (I never want to do that again) Just in time, a union shop offered me a job. And I was back on my feet and doing well again and in a large house with a large mortgage and in a relationship with a woman that was only made possible by the miracle of Viagra and my paycheck. Soon though, that fell apart and I was in the house alone. I could still afford it, week to week, though it was not exciting to be working only for a house and lonely hobbies.
I went to the Robert E Lee statue in Richmond Va where a (engineered) protest was occurring and met a very young Vietnamese woman who was photographing for the ACLU. She approached me in conversation. She was in a marriage of convenience and wanted to visit me in my house. I say okay, still thinking with my drug overdosed half penis and my cluttered up mind of mixed passions. But I was also intrigued by the wordly wisdom that accompanied her youth as well as her bravery. When entering the house, she sees the grand piano in the sun room. Politely, she asks to play. Of course, be my guest. As a beginning music student, I'd love to hear her play. She plays beautifully to my ears some classical type music. Near the end though, I straddle the girl and start to play on each end left and right.
Almost immediately, I imagine a picture. A big odious american playing both sides of a beautiful young asian girl. I became somewhat horrified as it seemed a perfect reflection of the region at the time of my birth. What am I? I soon realized that I was no longer willing to do what was necessary to maintain the illusion that I was living. I sold the house and I started selling my possessions, with the mind that I would start anew somewhat with out all the clutter. Amidst this process, I get the news about someone dear to me. Her husband and the father of two children decided that he was a she. Well he goes and cuts his.., well, he does surgery and takes hormone pills. And now he, that had a life like one I have only dream of having, is now a she, or something other than a man.
This triggers me and I go ballistic. In my mind, I start pushing the button and am ready to nuke the whole place with a Steppenwolf song blaring in my head. It's too late now, it's done. I think.
I was wondering what happened to my pedestrian friend from the other side of the world as I haven't seen the writing of Mr Linh Dinh in quite awhile. I look on substack. And there he is. He speaks of the leering loonies of the west wanting to blow everything up. I hate it all it seems, but for what its worth, I did enjoy reading your musings Linh Dinh. I am near pedestrianism myself with few possessions remaining, and am unsure what the next day will bring, let alone the day after that. I am bored though and running out of money and will likely look for employment once again in the world of long hours and scarce human engagement. That seems about the safest way for this one to have indoor plumbing and climate control. What once was a minimum requirement, now looks more and more like a luxury even if I may be around only rarely to enjoy.
In a rage, I pushed the proverbial button. Now I hesitate to click the send button. What have I become?
Can you believe that the US is bombing Iraq in 2024? It boggles the mind. Our leaders are the worst humans that have ever existed.