Stars and Stripes Behind Concrete

[Amman, 7/14/25]

Like I said, much of Amman outside Al Balad is deadening, but today, I forced myself to leave it. Getting into a yellow taxi, I said, “US Embassy,” but the Jordanian driver didn’t understand, so I tried, “American Embassy.”

Wouldn’t I rather go to Jerash, he asked in Arabic. No, I want to see “that crazy place,” the American Embassy. To lighten the mood, I pointed to my Canon 80D, then make a motion of me being shot. We laughed. Dropping me off right in front of that menacing fortress, he was still grinning. Driving away from this symbol of single homes surrounded by lawns, stacked cheeseburgers, sexy come-ons and casual genocides, he must have checked his rearview mirror for anything too exciting.

The building was set way back from the concrete barriers and concrete wall. A black armored vehicle was visible. Armed soldiers were even stationed across the street. I’m guessing anybody important inside were way underground. I’ve seen similar US embassies in Rome and Mexico City, but the ones in Bangkok, Phnom Penh and Tirana weren’t so paranoid. After 9/11, the US Consulate in Leipzig enlarged its perimeter so many businesses that had benefited from it went under. Uncle Sam can’t fuss over collateral damages.